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If you like, you can swap a standard top cap for something more interesting from a brand like Kapz. Canyon has used a headset system called i-Lock that it developed with Acros. Rather than preloading the bearings by tightening a top cap down on to a nut or expansion plug inside the head tube, with the i-Lock you tighten the stem on to the steerer tube then remove any play with a small Torx bolt. Tightening this bolt pushes two rings that sit on top ot the head tube apart to fix the headset in place.
This means that there's no danger of damaging the steerer tube. Plus, you can swap your stem without needing to adjust the preload on your headset. The list of headset types above is by no means exhaustive but it gives you an idea of the main types out there and how they work. The important thing is that when you replace your headset you double-check that the new one is compatible with your bike.
Many manufacturers have moved away from straight gauge fork steerers to add extra front end stiffness to their bikes. The size will be printed on the side of the bearing. Make sure you swap like for like. Headset bearings are generally ball bearings as opposed to needle bearings.
The balls can be either loose, caged or, as is usually the case these days, sealed in a cartridge. Most headset bearings are steel although you can get ceramic bearings that last longer, according to their manufacturers, and are more resistant to corrosion. This can cause rust and wear. If you have sealed cartridge headset bearings, you can carefully prise the O-ring off the top of the bearing with a very small screwdriver blade to gain access, and replace it equally carefully afterwards.
Replacing the cartridge bearings of an integrated headset doesn't require any special tools. You just remove the top cap, stem and any spacers, drop the fork out and swap the bearings over. This means you have to tighten the bolt that goes through the top cap to pull the stem, spacers, and headset together. In fact the first threadless headsets used plastic top caps, which were plenty strong enough to take the small load needed, but people broke them by over-tightening, which is why top caps are now usually aluminium.
If you like road. As a subscriber you can read road. The revenue from adverts helps to fund our site. Your subscription will help us to do more. Mat has been road. The Campy spec has more area that extends into the outer bevel as seen. Even with the extra beveled area on the Campy spec bearing, I still thought it might fit into the Cane Creek cup that I had, but I found that the outer diameter of each bearing is different.
In the pic, you can see the Campy spec bearing is labeled with " The Cane Creek bearing measures at approximately I would have thought sealed bearing headsets would have a standard size, but apparently not. My old KHE Unique frame came with unsealed F-set bearings for the upper half of the headset, and a sealed cartridge bearing for the lower half.
I'll pop the lower bearing out and get some measurements to see if it matches your Cane Creek or Campy numbers. Campy spec is what you are looking for. Sometimes, depending on the combination of brands the steertube will bind inside the cup, nothing to do with the bearing at all.
Other brands of cups seem to have no problem, it's just a matter of how much meat the company put on the inside. Ran into this with the headsets I spin down to fit old school frames- the Tange sets I started with had a smaller ID than the Asian copies I switched to to get more colors Previously I had to ask guys if they were using an integral fork and clearance the inside of the lower cup a couple thou.
It's just hit or miss with the headset you choose and the fork you choose. If you look at this fork, you can see the fatter portion at the crown end of the steerer looks like it continues up for a couple inches- this would be an example of a fork that might give you trouble. This might not have been an issue with the headset being too weak, but rather you might have a frame with machined recesses for the cup, which only go in mm or so, and some headset cups insert 12mm deep.
There are fancy and expensive tools for this, but anything that will let you press on the inside without contacting the outer rim will do Just for the record, this is what I would call a "race" note the open bearing laying on the table This is what the balls ride on and though it is black it is black oxide, smooth and hardened.
This goes on the part of the fork I would call the crown race shoulder. In fact, in old school headsets the concept was pretty much the same Shoulder height is only about 6-mm on it. I didn't watch the shop attempt to press it in but it is a shop that specializes in high end MTB and Road bikes so I assume they are using a proper press with the correct drifts.
I bent the plates on my press attempting to install the upper cup I got the lower cup in without any damage. The biggest problem with that headset is that the faces aren't even close to cut square, this is a result of the manufacturer using a shear to cut the steel instead of machining the cup.
If you look at one in person you will be astonished with how crappy the cups are, and it makes sense, these cost the same as any other integrated headset but also include cups Point being, it wasn't user error or general parts incompatibility that caused the problem, it is a junk part. Interestingly, there is a thread where teachbmxcharlie also references that once he installed this same headset it was then too loose to be pressed in properly again.
I just picked up one of these Promax headsets.
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